An exceptionally rare, early example of the large-scale use of platinum in jewellery

A platinum and gold six-pointed star brooch by Ernest Leblanc, Paris c.1880

Approximately 60mm diameter, 38.7 grams gross weight

The star itself is a highly evocative romantic piece of jewellery, the platinum emulating the light of a morning star. The front has an applied decoration of very finely executed chased gold and platinum convolvulus flowers and leaves, representing bonds of affection, alongside a nightingale symbolising love, virtue, and goodness.

The face of the star is a 0.7mm thick platinum plate, XRF tested to have a composition of 98.85% platinum combined with 1.15% copper. This plate is supported by a gold frame with French gold standard poinçon and the manufacturer’s mark of Ernest Leblanc

Ernest Leblanc’s mark was registered in Paris on 4th June 1873 and crossed off on 6th March 1886

Leblanc (b. Jan 12 1830) was known as a “theatrical armourer and jeweller” as well as a civil engineer. In 1864 he succeeded Edouard Granger as head of the most prominent French theatrical jewellery, weapons, and armour company, located at 11 Boulevard Saint-Martin, which became known as Leblanc-Granger.

As the head of Leblanc-Granger, Leblanc exhibited at various expositions; In 1867 he won a silver medal in the joaillerie-bijouterie class for his historical jewels, won a medal of progress at the 1873 Universal Exhibition in Vienna and a gold medal at the 1878 Universal Exhibition in Paris.

Leblanc-Granger is recorded as making ‘reproductions of historical jewellery in gilded copper, silver, and gold, and jewellery for theatrical use’. Contemporary reports note that some items were made of steel; perhaps, at such an early date, the ‘steel’ recorded was, in fact, platinum.

Clearly there is potential for further scholarly investigation

£28,000